A Crash Course in Dai Pai Dong History
October 8, 2024
Hong Kong’s unique culture can be seen in all areas of society, from the iconic red minibus to Cantonese opera. In this blog post, Chatteris Tutor Brian Lau takes us on a historical journey of the inherently Hong Kong dai pai dong.
A much cherished part of Hong Kong history. Noisy, grimy, and situated right on the roads of Hong Kong, these open-air food stalls are a quintessential part of Hong Kong’s culinary history, and also a must-go for every tutor from Chatteris, both past and present.
Of course, I am talking about the dai pai dong (大排檔).
Following the end of the Second World War, Hong Kong was in ruins. Families who survived the war lost their jobs and their businesses. As such, they needed to make a living, and fast. The Hong Kong government swooped in and immediately started issuing ad hoc licences for families to set up makeshift food stalls around the city. Quick to set up, these food stalls quickly became a staple around every block in Hong Kong. Dai pai dong translates directly to “Big License Stall”. Unlike similar government licences that are as small as an envelope, dai pai dong licences required a photograph of the licensee on the licence as well. As such, these licences were considerably larger in size. These big licences were usually framed and hung right outside the kitchen like a treasured family portrait.
Dai pai dongs thrived during the early years of Hong Kong’s recent history, featuring their signature red and white name boards and a hodgepodge of wooden and plastic chairs ready for any eager customers hoping to fill their stomachs with a quick bowl of noodles. Note that the stall in the middle reads “Ying Kee”. For both potential and current tutors, it’s interesting to note that the majority of local Cantonese restaurants like to use “Kee” (記) at the end of their names, typically to highlight that this restaurant has been passed down for generations. As such, restaurateurs would add their last name followed by “Kee” (記) at the end. So this dai pai dong in particular could’ve been named after the last name of the original owner, possibly surnamed “Ying” (英).
(Moon Kee’s original dai pai dong before their relocation to a brick and mortar restaurant in New York. Location unknown, 1964. Photo Credits: Moon Kee Restaurant via website.)
With commercial restaurant stoves out of the question due to the aftermath of World War II, dai pai dong owners resorted to using kerosene stoves as their equipment of choice. Kerosene stoves, originally designed for military use, were redesigned to be portable and quick to transport. A dai pai dong could easily be up and running within 15 minutes. Unlike our natural gas stoves, kerosene stoves produced a significantly larger output of energy. More energy equals more fire, more fire equals faster cooking times, giving dai pai dong dishes their signature smoky flavour, paired with speedy food delivery times that could even give McDonald’s a run for their money.
With these stalls around every street corner ready to deliver cheap, fast, and delicious food in less than 5 minutes, dai pai dongs quickly became a staple amongst the working class of Hong Kong. Note in the picture below that etiquette and attire was not a concern if you wanted to come to eat at a dai pai dong. All you needed was an empty stomach, and some good company.
(Beef and Potatoes. Yummy yummy, in my tummy. Photo Credits: Kim Do-Yoon, Google Reviews).
With nearly 200 stalls located around Hong Kong during the 1970s, they soon became a cause of traffic congestion, as well as violating certain health code risks for members of the public. Imagine living above a dai pai dong! I’d go insane if I smelled like fried noodles everyday! Due to this, the government cracked down on dai pai dongs, starting with the relocation of these stalls into indoor wet markets. Transfer of licences could no longer be inherited, and instead could only be given to the marital spouse of the current licensee holder. If the holder had no spouse, the licence would expire.
Fast forward to 1983, and the government began to offer current licence holders a monetary compensation in exchange for their licence. This proved to be quite effective, as the South China Morning Post reports that Kowloon City, which had been home to 68 dai pai dongs, had none by 1984.
Today, there are only around 20 such establishments still surviving in Hong Kong. Feeling hungry after this post? A favourite amongst tutors has got to be Oi Man Sang (愛文生). It is one of the oldest surviving dai pai dong’s in Hong Kong, serving quick-fire Cantonese dishes since 1956! A Chatteris Tutor favourite from this dai pai dong has got to be the black pepper potato and beef stir fry. Marinated generously with a baking soda and black pepper/soy sauce mixture to tenderise the beef chuck, this is one flavour packed dish. Highly recommended! If you are aiming to grab a seat here, please arrive earlier in the evening as this place gets fully packed very quickly. However, does it translate to Loving Mr. Man, or is it Mr. Oi Man? I apologise for not having this information. Maybe try asking the owner yourself!
Food, culture, history, Hong Kong has got it all. Apply for the Chatteris Programme here for a chance to experience it while developing your professional skills through a fulfilling career in education!